MY SAVVY TRAVELLER

Insider news, views & reviews

Ukraine's New Tourism Niche: Travelling Into a War Zone

As visitor numbers slowly recover, "dark tours" are becoming part of a new tourism landscape shaped by memory, resilience, and war.

Foreign journalists visiting Russian remnants of war alongside the train route between Kyiv and Chernihiv

Most foreign governments continue to advise against non-essential travel to Ukraine. Yet a small but growing number of international visitors are heading there anyway.

They are not coming for beaches, nightlife, or bargain city breaks. Instead, many are booking guided visits to places that have become synonymous with Russia's invasion — from Bucha and Irpin near Kyiv to heavily damaged neighborhoods in Kharkiv. The tours, often described as "dark tourism," are attracting travellers seeking a deeper understanding of a conflict that has reshaped Europe and dominated headlines for more than four years.

According to a report by RFE/RL, some Ukrainian tour operators say war-related excursions now account for the vast majority of their business. Kyiv-based guide Anton Syniakov estimates that around 80 percent of the tours his company now provides focus on sites connected to the war.

The emergence of this niche marks a dramatic transformation for Ukraine's tourism industry. Before Russia's annexation of Crimea in 2014, the country welcomed more than 24 million visitors annually. Tourism was booming, supported by visitors from neighboring Russia, Europe, and beyond. Successive crises — first war, then the COVID-19 pandemic, followed by Russia's full-scale invasion in 2022 — devastated the sector.

Yet amid the destruction, a new tourism model appears to be taking shape.

One visitor interviewed by RFE/RL, a Canadian nurse identified only as Thomas, travelled to Kharkiv in 2024 to see the war's impact firsthand. What he encountered changed the course of his life. After completing the tour, he volunteered as a medic in eastern Ukraine and later enrolled in a Ukrainian medical school.

He recalled being struck not only by the destruction but by the resilience of those living among it. In one damaged apartment block, a large hole torn through the building by a strike sat just metres away from an occupied flat where a resident was quietly preparing dinner.

Tour operators say initial criticism that visitors were "dancing on the graves" of war victims has softened as communities increasingly view foreign guests as witnesses and ambassadors. Residents frequently share personal stories, show visitors damaged homes, and express gratitude for international support.

Ukraine's State Agency for Tourism Development appears to recognize the trend. It recently described a "new tourism paradigm" focused on destinations and routes that commemorate the sacrifices made by Ukrainians in their struggle for freedom and security.

For now, visitor numbers remain modest and far below pre-war levels. But tourism insiders believe these journeys — part remembrance, part education, and part solidarity — may become a lasting feature of Ukraine's tourism landscape long after the war ends.